A circuit from Keld to Muker
"A spectacular walk at the head of Swaledale in North Yorkshire"
Walk directions
Walk back down the car park entrance road and straight ahead down a gravel track, signed ‘Pennine Way and Coast to Coast’. Continue along at the upper level, ignoring a path downhill to the left. Go through a gate, pass a sign to Kisdon Upper Force, and then continue along the path below the crags until you reach a signpost.
Turn right, following the Pennine Way, and go up to a gap in a wall and another signpost. Head left and follow a rough and stony – but mostly level – path along Kisdon Side, first above woodland then across some more open slopes. Go through five gates (some are by stiles) and then continue down to a signpost and bear right until reaching another signpost, where the Pennine Way goes right.
Bear left down a walled track, signed ‘Muker’. After a gate the track becomes metalled, finally descending through two gates into a walled lane on the edge of the village. Continue to a T-junction.
Turn left and in a few paces left again by a sign to Gunnerside and Keld. Follow the paved path through six gates to the river. Turn sharp right, signed ‘Gunnerside’, and walk downstream to a footbridge.
Ascend steps beyond the footbridge and turn left, signed ‘Keld’. Follow a clear track up along the valley, until it curves right into Swinner Gill. Cross a footbridge by the remains of lead workings, and go up to a wooden gate.
Go straight ahead up the hill to another gate and on through woodland. The track levels out, then it starts to descend, winding left round a barn then swinging back right. Continue steadily downhill through a gate to reach a gate above East Gill Force.
Fork left by a wooden seat, at a Pennine Way sign. Follow the path down to a footbridge, cross it, then bear right, uphill, to a T-junction, where you turn right and follow the track back to the car park.
Additional information
Terrain
- Field and riverside paths and tracks, 4 stiles
Landscape
- Hillside and valley, hay meadows, riverside and waterfalls
Dog friendliness
- Dogs on leads (there are lots of sheep and nesting birds)
Parking
- Signed car park at west end of Keld near Park Lodge
Toilets en route
- Keld and Muker
About the walk
Keld – its name is the Old Norse word for a spring – is one of the most remote of the Dales villages. Set at the head of Swaledale, its cluster of grey cottages is a centre for some of the most spectacular walks in North Yorkshire. This walk follows, for part of its way, the traditional route by... which the dead of the upper Dales were taken the long distance for burial in Grinton churchyard. Leaving the village, the walk takes the Pennine Way as it follows the sweep of the Swale on its way down to Muker. This is Kisdon Side, on the slopes of the conical hill known as Kisdon. As the Pennine Way goes west, eventually to climb the slopes of Great Shunner Fell, the walk joins the Corpse Way and descends into Muker. Like many Swaledale settlements, it expanded in the 18th and 19th centuries because of local lead mining. The Anglican church, which eventually did away with the long journey to Grinton, dates from 1580. Beyond Muker the walk passes through hay meadows and along the banks of the Swale. Both sandstone and limestone are found here; look out for the sandstone bed underlying the river. The limestone is part of the thick Ten Fathom bed, one of the Yoredale series of sedimentary rocks. Where the valley of Swinner Gill crosses the path you’ll see the remains of a small smelt mill that served nearby mines. As you ascend the hill beyond, the ruins of Crackpot Hall, a long-abandoned farmhouse, are to your right. Its name means ‘Crows Pothole’. As the track descends the valley, the waterfall of Kisdon Force is below, and there are high overhanging crags on the opposite bank. Further along, you turn downhill to the footbridge, passing East Gill Force. Like all the Dales falls, the volume of its water can vary wildly from a summer trickle to a raging winter torrent. Whatever its condition, the rocks can be very slippery and you should take special care if you leave the path to get a better view.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
North Yorkshire, with its two National Parks and two designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, is England’s largest county and one of the most rural. This is prime walking country, from the heather-clad heights of the North York Moors to the limestone country that is so typical of the Yorkshire Dales – a place of contrasts and discoveries, of history and legend.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Inn
The Punch Bowl Inn
★★★★
"Stylish rooms and a welcoming bar in stunning Dales countryside..."
- Rooms 11
- Free TV
- Direct Dial
- Wifi
Hotel
Stone House Hotel
★★★
"Elegant Edwardian country house at the heart of the Yorkshire Dales..."
- En-suite rooms:
- Family rooms:
Self-Catering
Shepherds Cottage
★★★★
"..."
- Total units: 1
- Private garden
- Washing machine
- Sky or freeview
Nearby places to stay
The Punch Bowl Inn
The Punch Bowl is a friendly inn set in the heart of beautiful Swaledale and facing breathtaking views - a relaxing base from which to enjoy the stunning Yorkshire Dales. Amateurs of re...
★★★★ Rating
Stone House Hotel
The Stone House Hotel is a beautiful Edwardian country house deep in the heart of Wensleydale. With well-appointed bedrooms, award-winning menus and a dream location, this is the perfec...
★★★ Rating
Shepherds Cottage
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Charles Bathurst Inn
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Arklehurst Cottage
In the tiny Yorkshire Dales village of Langthwaite, in Arkengarthdale, Arklehurst is a traditional stone-built 18th-century cottage with comfortable accommodation for up to four people....
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Arklehurst
In the tiny Yorkshire Dales village of Langthwaite, in Arkengarthdale, Arklehurst is a traditional stone-built 18th-century cottage with comfortable accommodation for up to four people....
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Yorebridge House
Yorebridge House sits beside the river on the edge of Bainbridge, surrounded by the rolling landscape of the Yorkshire Dales. Once a Victorian schoolmaster’s house, it has evolved into ...
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Urlay Nook
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