From Kimmeridge to Tyneham
Walk directions
Turn right up the road and soon left over a stile, signposted ‘Kimmeridge’ – enjoy the sweeping views as you descend. Go through two gates passing the church, then on down the road. After the last house, a path on the right runs alongside the road, then rejoins it before the gate marking where it becomes a private toll road. Follow this on around the hillside and, where it forks, keep ahead, marked ‘Boats and Slipway’. At a stream, your onward route turns right through a car park with toilets but first, you could continue ahead to visit the Wild Seas Centre (open Easter to October).
Cross the foot of a car park with the toilets (signed ‘Range Walks’). Cross the foot of another car park, then descend some steps, cross a bridge and bear right (down left is to the beach). Pass to the left of some cottages and then the oil well. Go through the gate onto the range walk and continue around the coast on a track between yellow posts, crossing two cattle grids. The cliffs of Brandy Bay stagger away to the west.
After a mile (1.6km) cross a stile by a gate and follow the path as it zig-zags sharply uphill. Turn left at the top along a very narrow path to join the coast path at a gate. Continue around the top of Brandy Bay on the cliff path. When you reach a stile and marker stone turn down to the right, signposted ‘Tyneham’. Soon go through a gate to the left and follow the track down into Tyneham village.
After exploring, take the exit road all the way up the hill. At the top, turn right along a path immediately below the road.
Emerge at a gate and turn right down the road, to go past Steeple Pit. Where the road turns sharp left, go straight ahead on the tarmac drive through Steeple Leaze Farm and, heading over a stream, take the stony track ahead, leading straight up the hill under trees. After a gate, keep left up a muddy path that winds through gorse and scrub up the hill. Go through a gateway at the top and continue straight ahead, climbing to a viewpoint over Kimmeridge.
Turn left in front of a gate, and go straight along the edge of the field, following the ridge of the hill, for 0.5 miles (800m), with views to Smedmore House and Corfe Castle. At the road turn right to return to the start.
Additional information
Terrain
- Grassy tracks and bridle paths, some road walking
Landscape
- Folded hills and valleys around Kimmeridge Bay
Dog friendliness
- Notices request dogs on leads in some sections; some road walking
Parking
- Car park in old quarry north of Kimmeridge village
Toilets en route
- Near Wild Seas Centre at Kimmeridge Bay and Tyneham
About the walk
There’s a bleakness about Kimmeridge Bay. Giant slabs of black rock shelving out to sea, with crumbling cliffs topped by clumps of wild cabbage, create something of this mood. The slight smell of paraffin from the oil shales and the slow, steady movement of the nodding donkey of the oil well above... a little terrace of unmistakably industrial cottages reinforce it. The story of the bay is intriguing. Iron Age tribes spotted the potential of the band of bituminous shale that runs through Kimmeridge, polishing it up into blackstone arm rings and ornaments, and later into chair and table legs. People have been trying to exploit it ever since. The shale, permeated with crude oil, is also known as Kimmeridge coal, but successive attempts to work it on an industrial scale seemed doomed to failure. These included alum extraction (for dyeing) in the 16th century; use of the coal to fuel a glassworks in the 17th century (it was smelly and inefficient); and use for a variety of chemical distillations, including paraffin wax and varnish, in the 19th century. And, for one brief period, the street lights of Paris were lit by gas extracted from the shale oil. However, nothing lasted very long. Since 1959 BP has drilled down 1,716ft (520m) below the sea, and its beam engine sucks out some 80 barrels (2,800 gallons/12,720 litres) of crude oil a day. Transported to the Wytch Farm collection point (near Corfe Castle), the oil is then pumped to Hamble, to be shipped around the world.In contrast to Kimmeridge, Tyneham is a cosy farming village clustered around its church in a glorious valley. As you get up close, however, you realise that it’s uncannily neat, like a film set from the 1940s – Greer Garson’s Mrs Miniver could appear at any moment. There’s a spreading oak tree by the church gate; a quaint old phone box; even a village pump. The gravestones all look freshly scrubbed – no lichen here. The farmyard is swept clean and empty. The stone cottages are newly repointed, but roofless. Inside is an exhibition to explain all. The villagers were asked to give up their homes in December 1943 for the ‘war effort’, and Tyneham became absorbed into the vast Lulworth Ranges, as part of the live firing range. It’s a touching memorial, though nothing can make up for the fact that the villagers were never allowed back to their homes.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
Dorset is made up of rugged coastlines, high chalk downlands and a chain of picturesque villages and seaside towns that make up Britain’s Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, noted for its layers of shale and numerous fossils embedded in the rock. Hidden gems of Dorset can be found down winding, country lanes that lead to snug villages hidden from view.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Self-Catering
East Creech Farm Cottage
★★★★
"Enjoy a family holiday on this lovely working farm..."
- Total units: 1
- Private garden
- Lawn area
- Garden furniture
Caravan & Camping
East Creech Farm Campsite
★★★
"Great for kids and fine views across Poole Harbour...."
- Launderette
- Ice pack facility
- Cafe/Restaurant
Nearby places to stay
East Creech Cottage
Awaiting description...
★★★★ Rating
East Creech Farm Cottage
Set among the lovely Purbeck Hills, East Creech Farm offers camping and camping pods as well as this charming cottage, ideal for couples or families. It’s also good for fishing as there...
★★★★ Rating
East Creech Farm Campsite
This grassy park is set in a peaceful location beneath the Purbeck Hills, with extensive views towards Poole and Brownsea Island. The park boasts bright, clean toilet facilities, a wood...
★★★ Rating
Norden Farm Touring Caravan and Camping Site
This delightful farm site offers traditional camping but with excellent toilet and shower facilities. It is a very dog-friendly site and is ideally suited for those who want a peaceful,...
★★★★ Rating
Kingston Country Courtyard
Kingston Country Courtyard is set in the beautiful Purbeck Hills close to the Jurassic coastline with panoramic views from the garden of the historic Corfe Castle, Arne Peninsula and ac...
★★★★ Rating
Mortons Manor
Mortons Manor is a family-owned Grade II listed Elizabethan Manor House, sitting at the base of Corfe Castle and dating back to 1590. The Tudor building is in the shape of an ‘E’ to hon...
★★★ Rating
Woodyhyde Courtyard
Woodyhyde Courtyard is a luxury, single-storey property, with an indoor heated swimming pool, sauna and games room, that sleeps 12 and has six bedrooms and five bath or shower rooms. It...
★★★★★ Rating
Woodyhyde Camp Site
A large grassy campsite in a sheltered location for tents and motorhomes only, divided into three paddocks – one is dog free. This site offers traditional camping in a great location be...
★★★ Rating

