West Highland Way: Rowardennan to Inverarnan
In only a few hundred yards you've broken clear of the crowds and their cars (most people are either picnicking by the lochside or climbing Ben Lomond). Once past the youth hostel the track continues for 0.5 miles (800m) or so, to fork up right and pass above Ptarmigan Lodge.
Here a choice of routes presents itself. Those in a hurry have been known to continue along the broad forest road option higher up. That would be a pity, for the lochside route winds in and out of attractive woods, down to little bays, round small promontories and through plantations – and the path itself is smooth and comfortable, not at all the rugged struggle it was before being completely rebuilt in 2014.
About a mile (1.6km) along it is a crag known as Rob Roy’s Prison, where it is said the outlaw kept hostages in a natural rock cell. The next building on the path is Rowchoish Bothy.
Soon after Rowchoish the path rejoins the track above. This track immediately reduces to a lovely woodland path to the farm cottage at Cailness. The footbridge here is occasionally washed away by sudden spates down the steep burn.
At Inversnaid there is an elegant and unexpectedly large hotel dating from Victorian times, a ferry pier, and the end of the road from Aberfoyle. And of course the falls crashing down – they're best seen by a short descent left before crossing the bridge above.
Beyond Inversnaid, the wooded slopes fall steep into the loch, and the path has to fight a way through, with a fair amount of up-and-down and scrambling over rocks and tree-roots. Normal time allowances go out of the window on this stretch. (The really fainthearted could catch the ferry from the hotel across the loch to Inveruglas, and take the bus up the west side to rejoin the West Highland Way by the ferry from Ardlui.) As the Way crosses the Allt Rostan it passes from Strathclyde to Central Region; shortly after this a very steep slab is crossed by a stoutly built bridge. In another 0.25 miles (400m) or so you emerge at a bay with a grassy meadow behind.
The difficulties are now over. The path rises beside a stream, and drops past Doune, where there's another bothy. In another mile (1.5km) the north end of the loch is reached, and the path climbs through the gap east of Cnap Mor, past the lovely little Dubh Lochan (dubh meaning ‘dark’). The path runs down through woods to the Beinglas camp site. Here a diversion is often made the short distance across the site's entrance bridge and down A82 to the old Drovers Inn at Inverarnan for a well-earned refreshment.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
Nearby places to stay
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- Family rooms: 9
- WiFi available
- Lift available
- Rooms 4
- Launderette
- Cafe/Restaurant
- Picnic Area
- Shop onsite






