Solstice by Kenny Atkinson
"Precise techniques and bags of flavour."
Overview
Just off the quayside in Newcastle (and a short walk from sibling restaurant House of Tides), Solstice by Kenny Atkinson is almost directly underneath the iconic Tyne bridge. The restaurant has an unassuming and understated appearance from the street but set foot inside, however, and the split-level room has a classy and minimal look with dark blues and striking artwork on the half-panelled walls. There is an upbeat feel to the place and the welcome from the chatty and smartly attired staff is warm and genuine. With just seven tables, it’s an intimate space and there’s a gently formal edge with clothed tables, starched napkins, brass lamps and top-drawer tableware.
The contemporary cooking is underpinned by precise skills and is thoroughly seasonal. A ‘surprise’ tasting menu format means that the chefs present and explain the dishes at the table one by one. At dinner, the multi-course tasting menu comprises 15 to 18 dishes (it’s slightly less at lunchtime) and things might get under way with vibrant and deep-flavoured snacks such as beetroot, beef fat, horseradish and verjus, or duck, plum umeboshi, Pedro Ximenez and pain d'épices. Cuttlefish tartare, broccoli, trout roe and buttermilk is another striking and memorable flavour combination. Lobster makes an appearance, served two ways. First, the tail comes basted in rich beef fat and teamed with grapefruit and miso caramel, carrot purée with star anise and two different sauces; and to follow, lobster claw is incorporated in a rich spelt risotto and topped with a creamy red pepper and saffron sabayon. Next might be French squab pigeon breast cooked on the bone, served pink and succulent, with a stuffed baby turnip and a mini sablé topped with intense lovage purée. To finish – a decadent dark chocolate tartlet with fondant chocolate soufflé filling, banana ice cream and miso caramel.
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About the area
The metropolitan county of Tyne and Wear encompasses Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Gateshead, South Shields and Sunderland, as well as part of Hadrian’s Wall. The county is cut through by the two rivers after which it is named
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