High on the crags of Tal y Fan
Walk directions
From the car park at the top of the metalled section of the road to Bwlch y Ddeufaen, continue along the road, which is now unsurfaced, and follow it past the ancient standing stones to the high pass itself, where you go through a gate in a crossing wall.
Turn right and follow the course of the wall, across the pass under three lines of electricity pylons, and then up the steep, rocky slopes of Foel Lwyd. Ignore any stiles on the right. A narrow footpath continues, first descending then climbing to the even rockier summit of Tal y Fan.
Stay left of the stone wall to descend, sometimes straying further left to find more even ground. When the wall joins another from the right, continue straight ahead for about 350yds (320m) before crossing a ladder stile. Look for the gorse-covered mound of Caer Bach Fort.
From the remains of the fort, bear right through a metal gate to follow a wide grass track as it winds its way across high pastureland overlooking the Conwy Valley. On reaching a wall, turn right and continue on the grass track past several ladder stiles and gates in the intervening cross-walls.
The track passes beneath the whitewashed cottage of Cae Coch before reaching the road.
On reaching the Bwlch y Ddeufaen road at a sharp corner, go straight ahead along the road and follow it back to the car park.
Additional information
Terrain
- Cart tracks and narrow mountain paths, some stiles
Landscape
- Moor and mountain
Dog friendliness
- Can be off the lead on high ridges, but should be kept under tight control on farmland
Parking
- Free car park at end of Bwlch y Ddeufaen road, off B5106 Conwy–Llanwrst road
Toilets en route
- None on route
About the walk
When you’re driving along the A55 past Colwyn Bay, the first close-up views of Snowdonia reveal themselves across the Conwy Estuary. The peak that captures the eye here rises up behind Conwy Mountain and has just enough crags on top to ruffle its otherwise smooth whaleback outline. The mountain is... Tal y Fan, an outlier of the Carneddau range, and the most northerly 2,000-footer (610m) in Wales. Now you can climb Tal y Fan from sea level, but there’s a peak-baggers’ route that begins from Bwlch y Ddeufaen 1,400ft (427m) up in the hills above the Conwy Valley. From here you can get the wonderful views of Snowdonia and the North Wales coastline, from Anglesey to Conwy and its castle, without the toil of a full day’s walk. The road you walk is centuries old. Bronze and Iron Age tribesmen would have used it regularly, for they had large settlements all over the northern Carneddau. Great monoliths either side of the road give the pass, Bwlch y Ddeufaen (‘pass of the two stones’) its name. When you climb to the top of Tal y Fan you can see their settlements in plan, for here on a great, high plateau the Ordovices tribesmen could farm and watch out for their enemies. The Roman invasion under Gnaeus Julius Agricola must have come as a shock to these primitive farmers. Between ad 75 and ad 77 the invaders set up forts at Segontium (Caernarfon) and Canovium (at Caerhun in the Conwy Valley). When the Roman cohorts marched into the hills they made the Bwlch y Ddeufaen road their own, undertaking improvements by surfacing it and adding mileposts. The Ordovices were defeated. Great forts like Caer Bach, on the southern slopes of Tal y Fan, were abandoned. Today, Caer Bach lies beneath the turf and gorse, but with its earth ramparts and a circle of stones still visible. As you look down into the civilisation of the Conwy Valley you can drift back into time and those heartbreaking battles with the superior power. As the Roman Empire declined, the native tribes returned to Tal y Fan, tending sheep on the high northern plateau and growing crops on the steeper southern flanks. Looking down to the castle at Conwy you are reminded that although it would be Edward I of England who would come to conquer, it would take the land clearance and enclosure acts of the early 19th century to force the Welsh hill people away from their settlements.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
The majority of the population of Conwy lives along its picturesque coastline, while a third of the county falls within jaw-dropping landscape of the Snowdonia National Park. The town of Conwy, which takes its name from the county (which in turn was named after the river that runs through it), is undoubtedly one of the great treasures of Wales.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Town House Hotel
Castle Hotel Conwy
★★★★
"Impressive interior in one of Conwy’s most distinguished buildings...."
- Family rooms: 2
- Free TV
- WiFi available
Hotel
Maenan Abbey
★★★
"A pleasant guest experience with enjoyable cuisine...."
- Family rooms: 3
- Smoking rooms: 3
- Free TV
- WiFi available
Hotel
Quay Hotel & Spa
★★★★
"Wonderful estuary and castle views from this modern hotel...."
- Family rooms: 15
- WiFi available
- Lift available
Nearby places to stay
Castle Hotel Conwy
Castle Hotel is an iconic 16th-century building that offers a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. The hotel is well located on Conwy's High St, with rooms and a terrace that offers incredi...
★★★★ Rating
Maenan Abbey
Maenan Abbey is a small, personally-run country house in a great location in Eryri National Park. Visitors can enjoy the huge amount of local attractions, walking and outdoor activities...
★★★ Rating
Quay Hotel & Spa
This luxury hotel occupies a stunning position beside the estuary on Deganwy Quay overlooking Conwy Castle and Snowdonia. Sleek, contemporary design runs through all aspects here. Spaci...
★★★★ Rating
Bodysgallen Hall and Spa
Bodysgallen Hall is a 17th-century house situated in its own parkland and formal gardens, occupying an elevated position, with views towards Snowdonia and across to Conwy Castle. The lo...
★★★★ Rating
Bron Derw Touring Caravan Park
Bron Derw, once a dairy farm, is beautifully landscaped with stunning floral displays and is surrounded by hills. The park has been built to a very high standard and is fully matured. A...
★★★★★ Rating
Bryn Derwen
Located in a quiet area of Llandudno, Bryn Derwen is just a short walk from the main shopping area and local restaurants. A friendly welcome is assured at this impressive Victorian hous...
★★★★★ Rating
The Bulkeley Hotel
A Grade I listed hotel built in 1832, The Bulkeley is just 100 yards from the 13th-century Beaumaris Castle in the centre of town. Friendly staff create a relaxed atmosphere. Refreshmen...
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Dunoon Hotel
This impressive, privately-owned hotel is centrally located and offers a variety of well-equipped bedrooms. Elegant public areas include choice of bars, lounge with open fire and a tast...
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