Additional information
Terrain
- Good paths, some road walking
Landscape
- Lake, fells, woodland and farmland
Dog friendliness
- On lead near farms and open fells where sheep are grazing
Parking
- Car park beyond the Buttermere Court Hotel (fee)
Toilets en route
- At start
About the walk
Much has been written about Buttermere, the dale, the village and the lake; it remains, as it has been since Victorian times, a popular place displaying ‘nature’s art for art’s sake’, as W G Collingwood described it in The Lake Counties (1902). Nicholas Size’s historical romance, The Secret Valley... (1930), takes a rather different and much earlier line, describing a tale of guerrilla warfare and bloody battles here with invading Norman forces (see Walk 44). The Maid of Buttermere Buttermere achieved considerable notoriety at the pen of Joseph Budworth, who stayed here in 1792 and encountered Mary, the daughter of the landlord of the Fish Inn (now the Buttermere Court Hotel). In his guidebook Fortnight’s Ramble to the Lakes, he describes Mary as ‘the reigning Lily of the Valley’ and began what must have been a reign of terror for Mary, who became a tourist attraction, a situation made worse in later editions of Budworth’s book, in which he revelled in the discomfort all the unwanted attention heaped on Mary and her family. More sinisterly, in 1802, the tale brought to Buttermere one John Hadfield, a man posing as the Honourable Anthony Augustus Hope MP. Hadfield wooed and won Mary, and they were married at Lorton church on 2 October 1802 (coincidentally just two days before William Wordsworth married Mary Hutchinson). With the honeymoon scarcely begun, Hadfield was exposed as an impostor, and arrested on a charge of forgery – a more serious offence than of bigamy, of which he was also guilty – and later tried and hanged at Carlisle. Accounts of the whole episode are given by Thomas de Quincey in Recollections of the Lakes and the Lake Poets and by Melvyn Bragg in his 1987 novel The Maid of Buttermere, a description used by Wordsworth in ‘The Prelude’. The whole saga was dramatised and found its way onto the stages of some London theatres. Happily for Mary, she later remarried, had a large family and by all accounts a happy life.
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Cumbria
Cumbria's rugged yet beautiful landscape is best known for the Lake District National Park that sits within its boundaries. It’s famous for Lake Windermere, England’s largest lake, and Derwent Water, ‘Queen of the English Lakes', but other lesser-known areas in the south, such as the Lune Valley and the coastal towns, are secret gems of wide cobbled streets and rolling hills.