Alfriston and Berwick
"Beginning in the Cuckmere Valley, this breezy walk climbs high on to the Downs before visiting a church renowned for its wall painting."
Walk directions
Turn left on leaving the car park, by the tourism leaflets dispenser, and make for the centre of Alfriston. Pass the cross in the main street and turn right by the Star Inn, following Star Lane. Go straight over at the junction up King’s Ride and continue on the South Downs Way. The road dwindles to a steep flinty track further up. This was originally a drovers’ route for sheep being driven to market. Pass two tracks on the right and follow the wide track as it curves gently to the right. Continue on the South Downs Way, forking right at a signpost, then just after cross a track to take a gate ahead. Proceed along a fence and keep going over this high ground. This stretch of the walk gives exhilarating views over the Downs and towards Alfriston.
Turn right through the next gate, signposted ‘Public Bridleway’, initially following the path between fences, then bending to the left and dropping steeply. The smooth expanse of Arlington Reservoir is visible in the distance.
Some 75yds (68m) beyond a gate halfway down the slope, turn sharp right at a junction. Follow the clear path towards the distant spire of Berwick church, joining a hedgerow, and soon forking right at a signpost. Continue along a narrow woodland strip between fields. Join a track near a huge converted barn, turn right on it, then immediately swing left. Pass a bridleway on the right and continue on the track. Swing right at a corrugated barn populated by swallows in the summer, and walk along to The Cricketers Arms.
Join the unwaymarked shingle track opposite the pub, first crossing an area often used for parking. Veer right around the pond, pass between houses to reach a nettle-strewn path and then a stile with a Vanguard Way sign. Cross a field to the gate to Berwick church. Enter the churchyard to view the church. Leave by the same gate, returning to the Vanguard Way by turning right along the field edge, and right again to a gate in the corner. Go straight on at the junction at a point level with the end of the churchyard, following VGW markers. Descend to a gate and follow the waymarked path across open fields, keep forward at the next junction, then climb to join a gravel drive.
Go straight ahead at a road, avoiding Winton Street on the left. Descend the slope into Alfriston and bear left for the car park, or continue into the village.
Additional information
Terrain
- Exposed paths and tracks
Landscape
- Downland to west of Cuckmere Valley
Dog friendliness
- Mostly off lead but not permitted at Alfriston Clergy House
Parking
- The Willows fee-paying car park, Alfriston; free parking in the smaller car park in the centre of the village
Toilets en route
- In free car park, Alfriston
About the walk
With its charming shops, inns and church, Alfriston is a classic Sussex village. Situated at the foot of the South Downs in a gap fashioned by the Cuckmere River, it’s the perfect place to explore on foot. St Andrew’s Church, known as the ‘Cathedral of the Downs’, occupies a secluded setting by... a spacious green, hidden away from the main street. Standing on an ancient Anglo-Saxon mound, it is said to mark the spot where four oxen, carrying building materials, lay down to rest. It has a large musicians’ gallery, unusually installed as recently as 1995 to provide extra space. At the centre of the village are the weathered remains of the market cross. It is one of only two such structures in Sussex (the other being in Chichester) and is thought to date from 1405, when Henry IV granted the village the right to hold a market. A lorry collided with it in 1955, and the shaft is a modern replacement; on top is a carving of a shepherd’s crown, a good-luck charm traditionally carried by shepherds. In centuries past, Alfriston was rife with smuggling activities and it harboured one of the most notorious smugglers’ gangs. The Market Cross Inn, also known as Ye Olde Smugglers Inne, was once home to gang-leader Stanton Collins, and reputedly contained numerous secret staircases and hiding holes. From the outside, Berwick’s church looks like any other country church, but once inside look for the time switch and light up the interior. That way you can appreciate the remarkable wall paintings in all their detail. These murals were commissioned by Bishop Bell of Chichester in 1943 and are the work of Duncan Grant and Vanessa and Quentin Bell, members of the renowned Bloomsbury Group, who lived nearby at Charleston. During World War II many church windows were destroyed by bombs, and the Bishop of Chichester considered it more appropriate for artists to decorate church walls rather than design windows. Familiar landmarks were used in the paintings, and local people took part as models. In one scene, over the chancel arch, a soldier and airman from Firle and a sailor from Berwick are seen kneeling.
Read more
Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
East Sussex is a land of stately homes, castles and the South Downs, with miles of chalk cliffs overlooking the English Channel. For history buffs, there are a great many historic landmarks within Sussex, such as the battlefield where the Battle of Hastings took place, or visitors can enjoy pretty towns such as Lewes, Rye and Uckfield and the city of Brighton.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Self-Catering
2 Kingsway Court
★★★★
"Delightful cottage close to the town centre, unspolt coast and South Downs National Park..."
- Total units: 1
Self-Catering
2 Kingsway Court
★★★★
"Delightful cottage close to the town centre, unspolt coast and South Downs National Park..."
Bed & Breakfast
Ocklynge Manor
★★★★★
"A special place to stay with immaculate gardens...."
- Rooms 3
- Free TV
- DVD Player
- Wifi
Nearby places to stay
2 Kingsway Court
A delightful holiday cottage, close to Seaford town centre, the seafront and the South Downs National Park. On the ground-floor there’s a large lounge/diner, large kitchen/breakfast roo...
★★★★ Rating
2 Kingsway Court
A delightful holiday cottage, close to Seaford town centre, the seafront and the South Downs National Park. On the ground-floor there’s a large lounge/diner, large kitchen/breakfast roo...
★★★★ Rating
Ocklynge Manor
Over the centuries Ocklynge Manr has seen a variety of uses since serving as a commanderie for the Knights of St John in the 12th century. An air of peace and relaxation is evident in t...
★★★★★ Rating
Warren Wood Country Park
Situated in the heart of the East Sussex countryside, Warren Wood offers luxury woodland or lake side self-catering lodges, all with private hot tubs. Near to the seaside town of Eastbo...
★★★★★ Rating
Golden Cross Holiday Park
Situated in the East Sussex countryside, Golden Cross Holiday Park offers luxury self-catering holiday lodges with each one having its own private hot tub. A great location for visiting...
★★★★ Rating
Broadacres
Broadacres is a beautiful property located very near Lewes, and has a single, spacious, self-contained suite for guest use. The richly decorated suite is well equipped – the bedroom fea...
★★★★★ Rating
Beachy Rise Guest House
This friendly, family-run guest house has a quiet residential location near the shops, pubs and restaurants in Meads village. Bedrooms are individually styled with co-ordinated soft fur...
★★★ Rating
Hydro Hotel Eastbourne
The well-managed and popular Hydro Hotel Eastbourne enjoys an elevated position with views of attractive gardens and the sea beyond. The spacious bedrooms are attractive and well equipp...
★★★★ Rating

