Rodmell and Virginia Woolf
"Where the River Ouse cuts through the Downs, through two beautiful villages with important literary associations."
Walk directions
Walk along Rodmell’s main village street, diverting to visit the church, and pass by Monk’s House where Virginia and Leonard Woolf once lived. At the village/National Trust car park at the end of the village continue straight ahead (avoiding the road bending to the left) at the bridleway sign and onto a track.
Beyond a water treatment works you will find yourself in the flat water meadows of the River Ouse, where it cuts through the chalk of the South Downs, with long views across to Lewes Castle and cattle and horses grazing. Continue straight ahead and through a bridle gate, most likely disturbing a heron or two as you go, then pass through another bridle gate to reach the riverbank.
Ascend the riverbank flood dyke and, through the kissing gate, go right to walk downstream, the tidal Ouse beside you. Continue alongside as it winds gently towards the sea.
After 1 mile (1.6km), emerge via a gate onto a lane by Southease Bridge and turn right. Follow the lane, and beyond a line of willows leave the water meadows to climb to Southease, a small and pretty village with a green and a church with a Norman round tower and nave, and 13th-century wall paintings that were covered over for several centuries and restored in the 1930s. Continue on the lane uphill, keeping to the right of the church.
Halfway up the slope, and before this reaches the main road, take a gate on the right signposted ‘Permissive path, Rodmell 1/2 mile’. Immediately go through another gate on the left and follow the path between fences, which runs closely parallel to the road and soon gains views across the valley. Beyond the next gate, this continues along the left field-edge. Join the road just after the ‘Rodmell, please drive carefully’ sign, on a stony path, then follow the road into Rodmell and the end of the walk.
Additional information
Terrain
- Tracks and riverbank path, village streets and some lanes
Landscape
- Water meadows of the River Ouse and villages on the foothills of the South Downs
Dog friendliness
- On lead along road between Southease and Rodmell and in Rodmell village
Parking
- On-street parking on The Street, Rodmell or at Monk’s House car park when house is closed
Toilets en route
- None on route
About the walk
In 1919 the novelist Virginia Woolf and her husband, Leonard, leading lights in the Bloomsbury Group, bought Monk’s House in Rodmell as a country retreat. They were following her sister, Vanessa Bell, who had settled in 1916 at Charleston Farmhouse, near Eastbourne. Frequent visitors to Monk’s... House included poet T S Eliot and novelist E M Forster. A modest, weatherboarded cottage, it was extended by the Woolfs, and Virginia used a timber lodge at the bottom of the garden for her writing. Here she worked on her best-known novels, including Mrs Dalloway, To the Lighthouse and Between the Acts. Besides the creativity of her writing and her life here with Leonard, Monk’s House is inevitably associated with Virginia’s suicide in 1941. Subject to depression all her life, she drowned herself in the River Ouse. Leonard Woolf lived on here until his death in 1969, and Monk’s House was given to the National Trust in 1980. Lived in by tenants, the house is open to visitors on afternoons from Wednesday to Sunday between April and October. Neighbouring Southease’s distinctive church has a round bell tower, one of only three in Sussex; most round towers are found in East Anglia, where there are about 170. Both areas are short of good building stone: round towers need no costly corners and edges in dressed stone, and they mostly date from about ad 1000 to 1200. These marshes with occasional islands such as Lower Rise in the Brooks nearer Lewes were taken in hand in the 1530s by the local gentry, who channelled the river between dyke banks and cut drainage channels. The sea had invaded in the Great Storm of 1421 that caused enormous devastation and floods in Sussex and almost drowned Holland. Part of the drainage work included cutting a new channel to the sea, which emerged at a ‘new haven’ or harbour – now Newhaven, and not so new.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
East Sussex is a land of stately homes, castles and the South Downs, with miles of chalk cliffs overlooking the English Channel. For history buffs, there are a great many historic landmarks within Sussex, such as the battlefield where the Battle of Hastings took place, or visitors can enjoy pretty towns such as Lewes, Rye and Uckfield and the city of Brighton.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Hotel
Malmaison Brighton
★★★★
"Stylish modern hotel at the heart of Brighton's marina complex...."
- Family rooms:
- Free TV
- WiFi available
Self-Catering
2 Kingsway Court
★★★★
"Delightful cottage close to the town centre, unspolt coast and South Downs National Park..."
Self-Catering
2 Kingsway Court
★★★★
"Delightful cottage close to the town centre, unspolt coast and South Downs National Park..."
- Total units: 1
Nearby places to stay
Malmaison Brighton
Overlooking the waterfront at Brighton Marina, the stylish Malmaison Brighton offers a good number of contemporary sea-facing rooms with balconies, terraces and air conditioning. The po...
★★★★ Rating
2 Kingsway Court
A delightful holiday cottage, close to Seaford town centre, the seafront and the South Downs National Park. On the ground-floor there’s a large lounge/diner, large kitchen/breakfast roo...
★★★★ Rating
2 Kingsway Court
A delightful holiday cottage, close to Seaford town centre, the seafront and the South Downs National Park. On the ground-floor there’s a large lounge/diner, large kitchen/breakfast roo...
★★★★ Rating
The Jolly Sportsman
The Jolly Sportsman lives in the picturesque village of East Chiltington, and offers a combination of locally sourced food, comfortable accommodation, and a stunning garden bar, all set...
★★★★ Rating
Central Wave
Awaiting description....
★★★ Rating
A Room With A View
In a superb position opposite the beach and near the celebrated Palace Pier, but also on the corner of a delightful garden square, A Room with a View offers space, comfort and convenien...
★★★★★ Rating
New Steine
Close to the seafront, off the Esplanade, the New Steine provides spacious and well-appointed accommodation. Simple yet appealing dishes with a French and British influence are availabl...
★★★★ Rating
Queens Hotel
This hotel has a fantastic location with views of the beach and pier. The modern bedrooms and bathrooms are spacious, and many benefit from uninterrupted sea views. All bedrooms have Sm...
★★★ Rating


