A walk from Lake Vyrnwy's dam
Walk directions
This route mostly follows the Craig Garth–bwlch Nature Trail, highlighted by dark blue waymarkers. Follow the tarmac lane past the café, beyond which you’ll see the first of the waymarkers. The lane climbs through oak woods.
Ignore the turn-off to the left down to Grwn-oer, but continue with the lane, which swings right, over Craig Garth-bwlch (hill), where the trees thin out to reveal bracken-clad hillside to the right and pastures to the left.
The tarmac ends at the Tynewydd Farm turn-off to the south of Craig Garth-bwlch. Here the route continues on a stony forest track that skirts the hill before entering the forest itself. The track descends and veers right to meet another track, which has climbed from the valley hamlet of Ddol Cownwy. Follow it to the right, now with forest on the right and pastures falling away left to the River Cownwy.
Take the right fork just before Bryn Cownwy Farm and climb through the conifers. At a four-way junction keep ahead, following blue waymarkers. The track later swings sharply left, eventually arriving at another meeting of paths.
The ongoing route is to the right, but first wander straight ahead for a splendid view of Lake Vyrnwy Reservoir and its dam. Return to the path to descend gently through the trees, and bear left at a junction.
Lower down the track swings right to follow the edge of the forest, with fields to the left. The track bends left and descends back to a tarmac road and the car park.
Additional information
Terrain
- Country lane, forest tracks and field paths
Landscape
- Forested hills
Dog friendliness
- Farmland – dogs should be on lead
Parking
- Car park by the RSPB Visitor Centre
Toilets en route
- Near the dam, up from RSPB visitor centre
About the walk
When 18th-century traveller Thomas Pennant came to the Efyrnwy (Vyrnwy) there was no reservoir. He described a wild Welsh cwm situated ‘in hilly naked country’, property of the powerful Vaughans. Llanwddyn village snuggled in a hollow where the Afon Cedig met the Efyrnwy. In 1860 Llanwddyn was... still a picturesque place with 10 farms, 37 houses, three inns, two chapels and a small parish church. The hills were free of conifers and a little two-arched, humpback bridge spanned the Efyrnwy. Further up the valley was Eunant Hall, a grand mansion owned by Sir Edmund Buckley – life was all very peaceful and orderly. But behind the scenes, Liverpool, the second city of the British Empire, was searching for water to feed its factories. The engineers turned to the Efyrnwy. Royal Assent followed and by 1880 work had started. Llanwddyn was invaded by engineers and 1,000 navvies, who were to build a huge dam and a 68-mile (109km) gravity-fed tunnel leading all the way back to their city. Over 510,000 tons of rock were quarried from the local mountains to build the then largest masonry dam in the world. As the walls went up, enclosing this little world from the outside, life for those in Llanwddyn went on, but the village had to go – it was to be flooded under the gigantic new reservoir. So the engineers built a new village, including a church, to the south of the dam. The reservoir structures were completed in 1888. They are a masterpiece of Victorian Gothic design, but as the valves were closed and the waters rose, lapping slowly over the foundations of the demolished dwellings, a village was lost. A local legend circulated during the building of the dam. It had always been believed that the spirit of a ghost known as Yspryd Cynon lay beneath a prominent boulder in the valley. When the itinerant labourers blasted the stone in order to remove it from the site they reported that a large toad was seen sitting in a nearby pool rubbing its eyes. Locals were convinced that the toad was Yspryd Cynon. In the 21st century visitors flock to see the new Llanwddyn, with its visitor centre, its café and that dam. Severn Trent Water owns the place now and manages the land in co-operation with the RSPB. Nature trails have been developed within the vast conifer forests that surround the lake.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
The largest unitary authority in Wales, Powys covers an area of approximately 2,000 square miles. Much of that is mountainous because it actually has the lowest population density of all the Welsh counties.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Hotel
Lake Vyrnwy Hotel & Spa
★★★★
"Splendid luxury with views to die for...."
- Family rooms: 12
- Free TV
- WiFi available
- Lift available
Hotel
Palé Hall Hotel & Restaurant
★★★★★
"First class service and friendly staff in a fine country house hotel...."
- Family rooms: 6
- Free TV
- WiFi available
- Lift available
Restaurant with Rooms
The Firecat Country House
★★★★
"Delightful retreat in beautiful Welsh countryside...."
- Rooms 3
- Free TV
- DVD Player
- Wifi
Nearby places to stay
Lake Vyrnwy Hotel & Spa
Lake Vyrnwy Hotel is an elegant Victorian country-house hotel lies in 26,000 acres of woodland above its namesake, and provides a wide range of bedrooms, most with superb views and many...
★★★★ Rating
Palé Hall Hotel & Restaurant
Set on the edge of Snowdonia National Park overlooking the River Dee, Palé Hall was originally built in 1871 by industrialist Henry Robertson with the instruction that ‘no expense shoul...
★★★★★ Rating
The Firecat Country House
The Firecat Country House is set in the southern part of Snowdonia National Park. The house dates back to the 15th century and offers three luxury en suite bedrooms appointed with perio...
★★★★ Rating
The Hand at Llanarmon
Appointed to a high standard, this inn provides a range of thoughtfully furnished bedrooms, with smart modern bathrooms. Public areas retain many original features including exposed bea...
★★★★ Rating
The Royal Oak
Standing in the centre of Welshpool, The Royal Oak was once the manor house for the Earl of Powys, before being used as a coaching inn for travellers en route to the Welsh coast. A rang...
★★★★ Rating
Tyn Cornel Camping
A delightful riverside park with mountain views that is a popular base for those who enjoy kayaking and canoeing – The National White Water Centre is adjacent and there is a pleasant ri...
★★★ Rating
Pen-y-Dyffryn Country Hotel
Peacefully situated in five acres of grounds, Pen-y-Dyffryn is a charming old house that dates back to around 1840, when it was built as a rectory. The tastefully appointed public rooms...
★★★ Rating
The Nags Head Inn
Once a coaching inn, the Grade II listed Nags Head but has been bought right up to date to offer modern accommodation. A warm welcome is assured from the friendly team here. Log fires i...
★★★★★ Rating
Places to eat nearby View all






