Adventures in the Candovers
"This trail of amateur archaeologists and powerful bankers unravels the history of a Victorian church."
Walk directions
Turn right out of the lay-by and walk northeast along the B3046, leaving the Woodmancott turning behind you. Follow the flint wall of Manor Farm on the left, then pass the gates of Candover House on the right. Turn left onto the Wayfarer’s Walk opposite Garden Park Farm and walk up the side of the cricket field to visit the church.
Return to the road and turn left and then right onto the restricted byway. Pass Barn Cottage and its large black barn and continue along the firm track, with glimpses of the impressive 18th-century Candover House through the hedge on your right.
Turn left at the top corner of the field, keeping the line of trees on your right, then follow the track as it swings to the right and continue up the gentle slope, ignoring the gap in the hedge to the left, to a T-junction.
Turn right onto the waymarked off-road cycle trail that runs along the Ox Drove. The track follows a large field on the left, before bending sharply right to reach a junction by some large modern barns and a metalled road going to the left.
Keep ahead past the barns onto a surfaced farm lane and continue down the hill to the B3046, with the handsome frontage of Robey’s Farm House ahead. Turn right at the bottom to complete the short distance back to your car.
Additional information
Terrain
- Mostly firm tree-shaded tracks, with initial roadside section (no pavement)
Landscape
- Gently undulating arable farmland
Dog friendliness
- Keep on lead (shooting country)
Parking
- Roadside lay-by on B3046, centre of Brown Candover
Toilets en route
- None on route
About the walk
Walking up beside the cricket field towards the trim and neatly kept church of St Peter and its impressive row of yew trees, the words ‘media frenzy’ and ‘Brown Candover’ seem unlikely bedfellows. And yet, in 1928, correspondents from titles as diverse as The Times and the Children’s Newspaper... converged on the Candover Valley. Television was still in the future but Brown Candover was featured on the radio and in local papers from as far away as Yorkshire and Chiswick. Old William's tale The seeds of this story were sown in the 19th century, when the parish of Brown Candover had been merged with neighbouring Chilton Candover. The little church at Chilton Candover was declared redundant and was pulled down in 1876 — and over the years, the old churchyard became overgrown and neglected. When the rector, Reverend Gough, decided to tidy it up, he struck up a conversation with 80-year-old William Spiers who had lived in the village all his life. Old William told the rector that he remembered kicking skulls around in ‘a great old place’ underneath the churchyard when he was a boy. In the best traditions of Victorian amateur archaeology, Reverend Gough called in his son and the two men started to dig. The press was quick to catch on. Was it an underground church? A Roman temple? Everyone seemed to have different ideas, though the structure was eventually identified as a Norman crypt with a barrel-vaulted nave and lancet windows. Inside the crypt was the 14th-century tomb of John of Candover. A Victorian replacement The little building is on private land but you’ll see its successor easily enough on this walk. Largely financed by the wealthy Baring banking family who lived at nearby Northington Grange, St Peter’s church was built in 1844. It was designed by T H Wyatt, who later worked on new assize courts in Winchester and went on to become President of the Royal Institute of British Architects.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
Hampshire’s varied landscape of hills and heaths, downlands and forests, valleys and coast are without rival in southern England. Hike across the chalk downland of the north Hampshire ‘highlands’, meander along peaceful paths through unspoilt river valleys of the Test, Itchen, Avon and Meon, or explore the lonely salt marshes and the beautiful medieval forest and heathland of the New Forest.
Nearby places to stay
View all (8)
Hotel
The Swan Hotel
★★★
"Charming 18th-century hotel that benefits from its very central location...."
- Family rooms: 2
- Free TV
- WiFi available
Inn
The Woolpack Inn
★★★★
"A country inn with stylish bedrooms and quality food...."
- Rooms 8
- Free TV
- Direct Dial
- Wifi
Nearby places to stay
Northbrook Arms
The well-appointed cottages at the Northbrook Arms are located in the pretty village of East Stratton, Hampshire and sleep 8, 6 or 2 guests. Attractions in the area include the city of ...
★★★★ Rating
The Swan Hotel
The Swan Inn is a former coaching inn dating back to the 18th century and remains a busy and popular destination for visitors and locals alike. Bedrooms are situated in both the main bu...
★★★ Rating
The Woolpack Inn
An attractive country inn, tucked away in Hampshire's Candover Valley, offers a traditional atmosphere and bags of character. The flint and brick building dates back to 1880 and many or...
★★★★ Rating
East Cottage
East Cottage is a single storey ‘eco build’ in a peaceful location by the River Itchen, between Winchester and New Alresford. It sleeps 7+1 and neighbouring West Cottage sleeps 3 – they...
★★★★★ Rating
West Cottage
West Cottage is a single storey ‘eco build’ in a peaceful location by the River Itchen, between Winchester and New Alresford. It sleeps 3 and neighbouring East Cottage sleeps 7+1 – they...
★★★★★ Rating
Park Farm Cottages
Park Farm Cottages are single storey ‘Eco builds’ in a peaceful location by the River Itchen, between Winchester and New Alresford. East Cottage (sleeps 7+1) and West Cottage (sleeps 3)...
★★★★★ Rating
Two Hoots Glamping, Caravan Park & Campsite
Two Hoots Glamping, Caravan Park & Campsite is a small, very peaceful adults-only campsite offering spacious, grassy pitches for caravans and tents in a rural hilltop location close to ...
★★★★ Rating
voco Winchester Hotel & Spa
voco Winchester Hotel is on the edge of the South Downs National Park, within easy reach of the historic city of Winchester. It provides style and comfort to all whether for an overnigh...
Quality Assessed
Places to eat nearby View all








