Home by James Sommerin
"Skilful contemporary cooking by the sea."
Overview
Tucked away a five-minute stroll from the Penarth seafront, Home by James Sommerin could be easily mistaken for a closed shop with its blacked-out windows. Once inside, this family-run restaurant feels tantalisingly cut off from the outside world with its curtained door and sense of mystery. A welcoming and comfortable space with dark walls, low lighting and just half a dozen tables, the mood is intimate and theatrical, with Sommerin and daughter Georgia working in the open kitchen facing the diners. Choose from daily-changing, four- or eight-course ‘surprise’ menus, each offering dishes with striking combinations of ingredients and plenty of visual artistry.
The cooking here demonstrates high technical skill and attention to detail at every stage. Start with a range of innovative snacks including chawanmushi – a delicate set custard, lightly steamed with a sweet parsnip flavour, topped with an intense onion broth – and seaweed ‘pillow’ with smoked cod’s roe, caviar and dill. The meal itself might begin with beetroot tartare, smoked cream, finger lime and trout roe, followed by venison tartare, hazelnuts, cauliflower and Jerusalem artichoke. Next up, a signature dish of liquid pea ravioli topped with parmesan that could lead on to pork loin rolled with a light mousse studded with black pudding and tarragon, and wrapped in prosciutto. Or, perhaps, a simply roasted and accurately timed piece of monkfish topped with a zesty and fresh chilli, lemongrass and coriander dressing. To finish, vibrantly coloured red wine poached figs are accompanied by burnt butter apple crumble and a deep-flavoured fig ice cream. The final course epitomises the ‘home’ theme of the restaurant with a cinnamon bun inspired by the owner’s grandmother. Proved for 24 hours and baked to order, the buns are doused in a rich brown cinnamon sugar glaze and served with a Madagascan vanilla crème anglaise dipping sauce.
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Features
- Facilities
- Seats: 26
- Food and Drink
- Cuisine style: Modern British
- Vegetarian menu
About the area
Stretching 14 miles on the coastline of south Wales, Glamorgan Heritage Coast was one of Britain’s first designated heritage coastlines. The project, launched in 1973, covers a 14-mile stretch of coastline incorporating Porthcawl (in neighbouring Bridgend), Dunraven Park, Monknash Coast, St Donats, Summerhouse Point and the cheerful beach holiday resort of Barry Island
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