Bibury, Arlington and Ablington
"The outer charm of a weavers' village conceals miserable working conditions."
Walk directions
From the entrance to the trout farm, walk away from Bibury along Cirencester Road. Opposite the telephone box, after The Catherine Wheel pub, turn right along a lane and then keep left at a fork. Go through a wooden gate, past some cottages and through another gate into a field. On the same path, curve left and then right through fields and past a farm building until you come to a road.
Turn right and walk down to a junction. Turn right into Ablington and cross the River Coln on a bridge. After about 33yds (30m), turn left along a track with houses on your right and a stream to your left. Continue to a gate and then follow the track, veering to the right and heading slightly uphill, arriving at another gate after 0.3 miles (500m).
Go into a field and turn sharp right along the valley bottom. Follow a twisting route along the bottom of the valley. When you reach the next gate continue into a field, still following the contours of the valley. The route will eventually take you through a gate at the far end of the field beyond a row of ash trees, just before a barn and with another gate immediately after.
Keep to the track as it bears into the right-hand valley and gently ascends a long slope, with woodland to your left. When the track goes sharp right just beyond the end of a conifer plantation, with a gate before you, turn left through a gate onto a track. Follow it all the way to a road.
Through a gate turn right. After 250yds (229m), where the road goes right, continue straight on through a gate to enter a track (the Salt Way). Continue on this for over 0.5 miles (800m), until you reach the remains of Saltway Barn.
Go through a gateway and fork left, then into a field and walk to the right, along its upper right-hand margin. Walk on for just under 0.75 miles (1.2km), passing hedge and woodland and, at a crossroads of tracks, turn right through a gate, waymarked public bridleway, into a field. Keep the wall on your right.
Walk on and pass to the left of Hale Barn after a gate. Enter a track, with the large buildings of Bibury Farm away to your left, and keep on the same line through gates where they arise. When you eventually reach some cottages, descend to a drive which will, in turn, bring you to a road in Bibury. Cross the road to walk down the street with the row of cottages beyond the telephone box on your right. At the end, near the church and school, turn right. Walk along the pavement into the village, passing Arlington Row and the river on your left, back to your starting point.
Additional information
Terrain
- Fields, tracks and lane, may be muddy in places
Landscape
- Exposed wolds, valley, villages and streams
Dog friendliness
- Lead required throughout – lots of sheep and horses
Parking
- Off-road parking area in Bibury village opposite Trout Farm
Toilets en route
- Near Post office
About the walk
Arlington Row is the picturesque terrace of cottages that led William Morris to refer to Bibury as the most beautiful village in England. It was originally built, it is thought, in the late 14th century, to house sheep belonging to Osney Abbey in Oxford. The wool was washed in the river and then... hung out to dry on Rack Isle, the marshy area in front of the cottages. Following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the land was sold off and the sheep houses converted to weavers’ cottages. Before mechanisation transformed the wool-weaving industry, most weaving took place in the houses of the poor. Firstly, women and children spun the wool either at home or at the workhouse. Then it was transferred to the houses of the weavers, who worked on handlooms at home at piece rates. A typical weaver’s cottage might have had four rooms, with a kitchen and workshop downstairs and a bedroom and storeroom upstairs. There were very few items of furniture in the living rooms, while the workroom would have contained little more than a broadloom and the appropriate tools. The woven cloth was then returned to the clothier’s mill for fulling and cutting. Work on cloth was often a condition of tenure imposed by landlords. The merchant landlord fixed a piecework rate, and provided that the work was satisfactory, the cottage could stay in the weaver’s family from generation to generation. Weaving went on this way for some 200 years, until the introduction of steam power in the 18th century, after which it tended to take place in the Stroud Valley mills. Despite their unfavourable conditions, the cottage weavers resisted the change, but to no avail. Apart from Arlington Row, there is plenty to enjoy in the village, especially the church, which has Saxon origins and is set in pretty gardens. Nearby Ablington has an enchanting group of cottages, threaded by the River Coln. A Cotswold Village (1898), which describes local life in the late 19th century, was written by J. Arthur Gibbs who lived at Ablington Manor. You pass the walls of the manor on the walk.
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Been on this walk?
Send us photos or a comment about this route. Or recommend a route of your own.
Walking in Safety
Read our tips to look after yourself and the environment when following this walk.
Get an AA guide
Explore our range of ‘50 Walks in’ guides - they’re the ideal companion for a ramble.
About the area
Gloucestershire is home to a variety of landscapes, including the Cotswolds, a region of gentle hills, valleys and gem-like villages that roll through the county. To their west is the Severn Plain, watered by Britain’s longest river and characterised by orchards and farms marked out by hedgerows that blaze with mayflower in the spring; beyond the Severn are the Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley.
Nearby places to stay
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Hotel
Swan Hotel
★★★★
"Former coaching inn in a charming setting...."
- Family rooms: 1
- Free TV
- WiFi available
- Lift available
Hotel
THE PIG-in the Cotswolds
★★★
"Cotswold country house packed with luxury and thoughtful touches..."
- Family rooms: 0
- Free TV
- WiFi available
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Swan Hotel
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★★★★ Rating
THE PIG-in the Cotswolds
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★★★ Rating
Collingwood House
Awaiting description....
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Collingwood House
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Mayfield Park
A much improved and gently sloping park on the edge of the Cotswolds that offers level pitches and a warm welcome. Popular with couples and families, it has well-appointed, fully servic...
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The Old Brewhouse
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The Fleece at Cirencester
Located in the heart of the market town of Cirencester, this country inn has been finished to a high standard with guests and comfort in mind. Bedrooms are sumptuous, and many thoughtfu...
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Lake House at Lakes by Yoo
A perfect retreat overlooking the finest British countryside, this is a haven for anybody that is looking to really detach themselves from the hustle and bustle of their busy lives whil...
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