After visiting the castle, head towards the seafront, noticing the fishing boats pulled up on the beach. Turn left along Prince of Wales Terrace, the seafront extension of Victoria Town, a smart residential area of large 19th-century villas built on the site of the old Naval Yard, to your left. A few blocks further along the seafront stands the four-storey Time Ball Tower.

Turn right along the pier and walk to the end for a fine view, then return to the seafront and continue along the promenade (part of the Saxon Shore Way). Nelson caused a frightful scandal when he brought his mistress Emma Hamilton to The Royal Hotel on Beach Street in 1801.

Carry on up the seafront as far as Dolphin Street, then turn left to reach Alfred Square a block inland. The press gang operated here, and smugglers’ hiding places are still being found in local houses.

Turn left down Middle Street. Glance right and left down all the side streets, where cobbled courts and passageways create a maze of intimate views, and terraces of tightly packed houses crowd the narrow pavements.

Turn right when you reach King Street and walk up to the High Street. Turn right and walk past the parish church of St George, where many naval officers worshipped during the Napoleonic Wars, including Nelson. Beyond it stand the town hall (now the tourist office), Miretti's and the community arts Landmark Centre. Turn left here up Union Road, left again on West Street and complete the block left again down St George’s Road, where you will pass the Maritime and Local History Museum on your left.

Return to the High Street and retrace your steps to King Street, then continue along the High Street. Turn left down South Street to admire a pretty pink-washed house; a plaque explains that from 1762 until her death in 1806, this was the home of Elizabeth Carter, a scholarly woman who became a close friend of Dr Johnson.

Walk down Victoria Road past the inland side of Deal Castle. Turn half-right up Gladstone Road, left down North Barrack Road and left again along the Strand to admire some of the fine old barracks buildings here (now converted into elegant housing). Return to your starting point.